Pedal Feel & Performance 

The best way to describe how your brakes will feel with our Brake Booster Eliminator (BBE) | Brake Booster Delete Kit is: 10-80% braking is about the same as good brakes on a booster setup. Nothing out of the ordinary. The heavy 81-100% braking requires slightly more leg effort but it's where this product really thrives. This experience is preferred by those in order to balance the lock up and max braking threshold. With the BBE you get the exact same braking every time while booster setups are inconsistent. You get a pedal thats easy to modulate levels of braking that you want. Your car will stop in the same amount of time as it would with a booster. A proper setup is something we strongly emphasize. There are some important basics to cover in order to achieve good braking.

The common hearsay of eliminating the booster is that the pedal is too stiff for comfortable driving on and off track. This is due to improper design and setup. The key to great pedal feel and more controlled braking is a properly sized master cylinder for your brake pedal ratio, an Adjustable Bias Valve to adjust rear brake bias, and performance brake pads for the rapid clamping force this setup creates (the compound allows for rapid bite). Don't worry, Chase Bays has you covered. You can get everything you need to properly set up your vehicle in one place.

The BBE works great with larger calipers. We have plenty of experience doing so. Not only have we tested the kit ourselves for over 8 years, but we have also sold them to over 2,000 customers who have continued to leave outstanding reviews.

Bigger Is Not Always Better
Increasing the master cylinder bore size will make the pedal harder to push. If a 1” bore master cylinder were used with the OEM pedal and no brake booster, pushing the pedal would be too stiff to allow the car to brake properly. Braking is more raw without the brake booster. Meaning there is less room for error on a poorly designed setup.

The pedal ratio needs to be matched to the master cylinder output volume. Its what directly effects how your pedal feels and how your braking functions. We ask the chassis this is being installed in to create a perfect match master cylinder size for the OEM pedal ratio. If we haven't measured the ratio on the chassis you type in, we may ask for some measurements.

Bigger MC = Harder pedal feel. More difficult to push and shorter travel.
Smaller MC = Softer pedal feel. Easier to push and longer travel.
Perfect MC = The one we’ll provide you with. Medium stiffness, just the right travel, and easy to brake on normal braking. Max braking requires slightly more leg effort but creates more control without easily locking up the brakes.

Product Testing
We are the only company doing on track testing of this setup. We actually do the math using your specific chassis input to determine the right master cylinder size. There are companies out there making poorly designed adapter plates with no master cylinder or clevis included and no actual development into the product. They leave you with portions of a full product and too much guess work.

Brake Lines and Single Output
This does not work with factory brake lines. This is due to the master cylinder being a single outlet design instead of dual/triple/quad like most OEM master cylinders. A common misconception is to believe this causes a higher risk of failure due to a lack of a back up line should one line fail. Most OEM master cylinders are still single feed internally and have the same assumed “risk” to our Master Cylinder. Always use good quality brake lines that are clear of moving parts.

Brake pressure output is determined by the master cylinder bore size. Vehicles with up to 4 outputs on the master cylinder have a pressure output that is controlled internally by the bore size. The increased number of outputs does not translate to more braking power. This does have a single exit but it will not translate into any less braking pressure or performance.

Weight and Space Savings
This product is just 1.38 lbs. MC and Booster weigh anywhere from 10-20 lbs. If you delete ABS its an additional 30+lbs. A popular reason for changing to this we see is to clear larger engine(s) or accessories (turbo, downpipe, intake). You can expect over 3” inches of space saving in all directions and a 7” inch decrease in length.

Chassis Fitment
All Subaru's (including Subaru BRZ, Scion FR-S, and Toyota 86)